We take pride in the work we do and would like it to remain as beautiful as the day we left the job. We continual provide our customers with the information they can use to help maintain the products installed in their homes. We hope this helps.


CARE AND PRESERVATION OF YOUR HARDWOOD FLOOR: Building interiors are affected by two distinct seasons - Heating and Non-Heating. Recognizing that wood floor dimensions will be slightly affected by varying levels of humidity within your building, care should be taken to control humidity levels within the 45-50% range. To protect your investment and to assure that your floors provide lasting satisfaction we have provided our recommendations below.

HEATING SEASON (DRY): A humidifier is recommended to prevent excessive shrinkage in wood floors with dry to low humidity levels. Wood stoves and electric heat tend to create very dry conditions.

NON-HEATING SEASON (HUMID, WET): Proper humidity levels can be maintained by use of an air conditioner, dehumidifier or by turning on your heating system periodically during the summer months. Avoid excessive exposure to water, from tracking, during periods of inclement weather. Do not obstruct in any way the expansion joints around the perimeter of your floors.

Keep floor free of grit at all times.

Damp mop with 1 cup of white vinegar to 1 gallon of water.

Professionally screen & recoat floors with one coat of polyurethane every 3 -5 years. This will eliminate surface scratches, wear areas, and will restore the floor to look virtually new.
< TOP >

Interior Finishes
“The following article from NARI – National Association of the Remodeling Industry, is for Contractors, but the information is good for all. Enjoy!”
Mike Stumpf, President, Riverstone Construction, Inc.

As a contractor, you may believe that the structural integrity of the construction is the most important consideration of the job. The client may never see how ell the wall was framed, but interior finishes are an aspect they will see daily. You might want to consider the appearance of interior finishes as your personal signature on the job, since this aspect will be noticed long after the project has been completed.

The remodeling professional will encounter a variety of interior finishing situations. In the remodeling of older homes, the contractor may be dealing with plaster walls. In newer construction walls and ceilings are most likely going to be finished with gypsum drywall.

Drywall is a paper-covered gypsum-core panel. It is literally a “dry wall system” as opposed to plaster which is considered a “wet wall system.” Drywall comes in panels and is available in a variety of lengths and thicknesses. Because it was so common for homes to be built with 8-ft. ceilings, drywall is available in only one width – 4ft. Two panels hung horizontally equally 8 ft. vertically. The drywall can then be cut from the edge to accommodate the cutout for light switches located 48” from the floor.

The standard tapered edge of most drywall allows space for tape and joint compound to be applied allowing for the completed job to appear flat and smooth. A good taping job is as important as the quality of the drywall hanging to ensure panels are inconspicuously jointed. The process and materials selected to achieve a quality job may vary from company to company and amongst installers.
Should you use a two-compound system or a setting compound? Joint compound is used to bed the tape and topping compound is used for the final coats. Topping compound is easier to sand, but it is not stiff enough to be used for bedding the tape. Setting compounds use a rapid chemical drying process to allow for quick finishing and create a very strong joint. It shrinks less than other compounds making it ideal for filling deep cracks. Setting compound is an option for an experienced drywaller, but is not ideal for novices as it is more difficult to sand when dry and sets very quickly.

Nail pops are a frequent customer complaint. Double nailing reduces the likelihood of nail pops. Using drywall screws will minimize the issue. Drywall nails, which are either ring-shank or galvanized, have a concave head. When driven with a drywall hammer, a dimple is made in the drywall. The screw gun should be used with the depth setting allowing the screw heads to be set just slightly below the drywall surface.

Whether using screws or nails, the length of the fastener should penetrate the wood behind the panels a minimum of ¾”.
Remodeling contractors will also come across homes where the interior surfaces are plaster. Usually these homes were constructed prior to the 1950s. Plaster was typically applied to either a metal or wood lath system. The first basecoat applied over the lath is called the scratch coat. The scratch coat when pushed into the spaces between the wood lath strips would droop over the inside of the wall and form keys. This holds the plaster to the wall. The wet plaster was then cross raked or scratched to provide a rough surface so the second layer would bond well. The second layer is called the brown coat. It was typically a coarse plaster mixed with fibers such as animal hair. A thin layer of fine white plaster made up the finish coat.

You may run across older homes with damaged or cracked plaster walls or ceilings. When possible it is preferable to patch and repair rather than replacing with drywall. For tiny holes, a little spackle and a light sanding will do the trick. For a larger area, gently remove the loose plaster back to an area where the plaster is still firmly attached to the lath. You can then decide whether to use drywall, make the hole square to simplify the repair job. Use a utility knife or keyhole saw to cut away excess plaster. Secure the drywall patch to the lath or stud with screws. So not use nails as pounding may loosen adjacent plaster. The drywall should be taped and the edges feathered into the plaster to create a smooth undetectable patch.

Using patching plaster is another option. It handles very differently from drywall compound and will take a bit of practice to become proficient. It will harden and dry quickly. It also stays put, which is helpful when patching ceilings.

< TOP >

Coming Soon!

< TOP >

Contour Tops

CARE & Cleaning Guide

Regular cleaning with simple soap and water is all that is needed to maintain the beauty of the product

Recommended Cleaners
Most types of nonabrasive liquid and spray bathroom cleaners are fine to use. Window and glass cleaners also work well for cleaning water spots and refreshing the lustrous shine. To clean away soap buildup, use Tilex Soap Scum Removers for a shiny smooth, clean surface

No Abrasive Cleaners
Do not use any abrasive cleaners. They can dull the high gloss surface.

Recommended Polishes
Periodic use of a nonabrasive liquid auto wax will restore the high gloss shine and make your Heritage Marble products even easier to clean. Gel Gloss is a wonderful product that cleans and polishes in one simple step, and is available in liquid or spray

Hard Water
To remove hard water buildup, try a mild solution of vinegar and water. For really difficult stains, most lime and rust stain removers may be used. Be sure to rinse the product well after cleaning

Cleaning Whirlpool Tubs
Using the whirlpool system on a regular basis will help to prevent buildup in the water lines. Routine use of a spa and tub cleaner will help prevent residue in the system. Spa and tub cleaners are readily available at most spa and pool companies. Follow the manufacture’s recommendations for cleaning whirlpool tubs

Cleaning Showers and Floors
Use a spray or liquid nonabrasive cleaner, such as tilex soap scum remover. Leave on for five minutes, the scrub with a soft-bristled brush and remove soap residue.

Minor surface scratches can be buffed out using a polishing compound and automotive buffer. Deep scratches or chips should be repaired by a professional repair company. Most minor cigarette burns can be set sanded with 600 grit sandpaper and polished to a high gloss finish with a polishing compound and automotive buffer

< TOP >

Coming Soon!

< TOP >

Coming Soon!
< TOP >


Your back-up system will give you trouble-free protection for years but you can't completely ignore it. The system does need regular attention and inspection once each month to make sure it is ready when you need it.

Check to be sure the transformer is plugged in and that either the Battery Ready or Charge Required signal light is on.

Disconnect float cord, pump and transformer connections from control panel. Carefully open the battery case and make sure battery connections are tight and not corroded. Clean and retighten if necessary. Remember battery acid is very harmful to skin, clothing, etc. Check the battery water level (follow the batter manufacturer's directions for refilling ). Do not have any flame or burning cigarettes near the battery. Be sure to close the cover and replace the padlock after inspection, and replug float, transformer and pump power cords into the control panel.

Test pump system operation. Unplug your regular sump pump. Fill the sump with water until the pump cycles once. Then plug in your regular pump.

This entire inspection and maintenance check will take only about ten minutes; a very small investment for this protection.


AFTER FOUR YEARS, REPLACE THE BATTERY BACK-UP EVEN IF THE SYSTEM HAS NEVER BEEN USED. Unless this is done, there may not be enough reserve power for protection during "power blackouts" of long duration. Normally, the old battery will still provide months of service in an automobile or boat. Record the replacement date on the label of the battery case cover.

After a prolonged period (18 to 30 hours) of power interruption (blackout) the battery may become exhausted. If this occurs, replace it with a fully charged 12 volt battery.

It takes only a few minutes to replace a battery in your system.

  • Have a fully charged battery on hand.
  • Unplug the pump power cord, the transformer cord and float cord from the control panel.
  • Remove the padlock and carefully open the cover of the battery box.
  • Loosen and remove the power wires from the battery.
  • Lift the exhausted battery out of the battery case. Have it recharged promptly. Replace it with a fully charged battery.
  • Close and lock the battery case cover. Plug the pump cord, float cord and transformer cord into the control panel.

    The unit should now function automatically until the electric power is restored at which time your primary pump will operate and the temporary battery can be replaced with the original battery.


The battery back-up sump pump has a warning buzzer that sounds if your pump turns off. THIS IS AN IMPORTANT SIGNAL REQUIRING PROMPT ACTION - possible repair or replacement of the AC pump. Until the AC pump is fixed, the battery back-up pump is handling all the sump water, and complete battery exhaustion will occur, often in 18 to 30 hours, leaving you with no protection.

Even if you cannot hear the signal, the Pump Cycled light goes ON whenever the battery back-up pumps. If the light goes ON often when no power failure has occurred, there is a problem with your regular sump pump. CORRECT AT ONCE.


Because it is a back-up system, use only in emergencies, it is important that you test it thoroughly at the time of installation and at least once each month. Correct at once any difference from the expected performance.

There is a 30 amp automotive type fuse on the control board. It may have blown and will not allow the pump to run. This may be due to obstructions within the pump inlet causing it to lock up or overwork itself. It can be removed by pressing and turning the cap, releasing it for easy replacement. Replace only with an automotive type 30 amp slow blow fuse.

NOTE: Always check all cords, plugged connections, etc. to see that they are intact; these are sometimes dislodged by children or pets.
< TOP >

New Builds
Coming Soon!
< TOP >




All rights reserved - RiverStone Construction©