take pride in the work we do and would like it to remain as beautiful
as the day we left the job. We continual provide our customers with
the information they can use to help maintain the products installed
in their homes. We hope this helps.
CARE AND PRESERVATION OF YOUR HARDWOOD FLOOR: Building
interiors are affected by two distinct seasons - Heating and Non-Heating.
Recognizing that wood floor dimensions
will be slightly affected by varying levels of humidity within your
building, care should be taken to control humidity levels within
the 45-50% range. To protect your investment and to assure that
your floors provide lasting satisfaction we have provided our recommendations
HEATING SEASON (DRY): A humidifier is recommended to prevent excessive
shrinkage in wood floors with dry to low humidity levels. Wood stoves
and electric heat tend to create very dry conditions.
NON-HEATING SEASON (HUMID, WET): Proper humidity levels can be maintained
by use of an air conditioner, dehumidifier or by turning on your
heating system periodically during the summer months. Avoid excessive
exposure to water, from tracking, during periods of inclement weather.
Do not obstruct in any way the expansion joints around the perimeter
of your floors.
Keep floor free of grit at all times.
Damp mop with
1 cup of white vinegar to 1 gallon of water.
screen & recoat floors with one coat of polyurethane every 3
-5 years. This will eliminate surface scratches, wear areas, and
will restore the floor to look virtually new.
following article from NARI – National Association of the
Remodeling Industry, is for Contractors, but the information is
good for all. Enjoy!”
Mike Stumpf, President, Riverstone Construction, Inc.
As a contractor, you may believe that the structural integrity of
the construction is the most important consideration of the job.
The client may never see how ell the wall was framed, but interior
finishes are an aspect they will see daily. You might want to consider
the appearance of interior finishes as your personal signature on
the job, since this aspect will be noticed long after the project
has been completed.
The remodeling professional will encounter a variety of interior
finishing situations. In the remodeling of older homes, the contractor
may be dealing with plaster walls. In newer construction walls and
ceilings are most likely going to be finished with gypsum drywall.
Drywall is a paper-covered gypsum-core panel. It is literally a
“dry wall system” as opposed to plaster which is considered
a “wet wall system.” Drywall comes in panels and is
available in a variety of lengths and thicknesses. Because it was
so common for homes to be built with 8-ft. ceilings, drywall is
available in only one width – 4ft. Two panels hung horizontally
equally 8 ft. vertically. The drywall can then be cut from the edge
to accommodate the cutout for light switches located 48” from
The standard tapered edge of most drywall allows space for tape
and joint compound to be applied allowing for the completed job
to appear flat and smooth. A good taping job is as important as
the quality of the drywall hanging to ensure panels are inconspicuously
jointed. The process and materials selected to achieve a quality
job may vary from company to company and amongst installers.
Should you use a two-compound system or a setting compound? Joint
compound is used to bed the tape and topping compound is used for
the final coats. Topping compound is easier to sand, but it is not
stiff enough to be used for bedding the tape. Setting compounds
use a rapid chemical drying process to allow for quick finishing
and create a very strong joint. It shrinks less than other compounds
making it ideal for filling deep cracks. Setting compound is an
option for an experienced drywaller, but is not ideal for novices
as it is more difficult to sand when dry and sets very quickly.
Nail pops are a frequent customer complaint. Double nailing reduces
the likelihood of nail pops. Using drywall screws will minimize
the issue. Drywall nails, which are either ring-shank or galvanized,
have a concave head. When driven with a drywall hammer, a dimple
is made in the drywall. The screw gun should be used with the depth
setting allowing the screw heads to be set just slightly below the
Whether using screws or nails, the length of the fastener should
penetrate the wood behind the panels a minimum of ¾”.
Remodeling contractors will also come across homes where the interior
surfaces are plaster. Usually these homes were constructed prior
to the 1950s. Plaster was typically applied to either a metal or
wood lath system. The first basecoat applied over the lath is called
the scratch coat. The scratch coat when pushed into the spaces between
the wood lath strips would droop over the inside of the wall and
form keys. This holds the plaster to the wall. The wet plaster was
then cross raked or scratched to provide a rough surface so the
second layer would bond well. The second layer is called the brown
coat. It was typically a coarse plaster mixed with fibers such as
animal hair. A thin layer of fine white plaster made up the finish
You may run across older homes with damaged or cracked plaster walls
or ceilings. When possible it is preferable to patch and repair
rather than replacing with drywall. For tiny holes, a little spackle
and a light sanding will do the trick. For a larger area, gently
remove the loose plaster back to an area where the plaster is still
firmly attached to the lath. You can then decide whether to use
drywall, make the hole square to simplify the repair job. Use a
utility knife or keyhole saw to cut away excess plaster. Secure
the drywall patch to the lath or stud with screws. So not use nails
as pounding may loosen adjacent plaster. The drywall should be taped
and the edges feathered into the plaster to create a smooth undetectable
Using patching plaster is another option. It handles very differently
from drywall compound and will take a bit of practice to become
proficient. It will harden and dry quickly. It also stays put, which
is helpful when patching ceilings.
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CARE & Cleaning Guide
Regular cleaning with simple soap and water is all that is needed
to maintain the beauty of the product
Most types of nonabrasive liquid and spray bathroom cleaners are
fine to use.
Window and glass cleaners also work well for cleaning water spots
and refreshing the lustrous shine. To clean away soap buildup, use
Tilex Soap Scum Removers for a shiny smooth, clean surface
Do not use any abrasive cleaners. They can dull the high gloss surface.
Periodic use of a nonabrasive liquid auto wax will restore the high
gloss shine and make your Heritage Marble products even easier to
clean. Gel Gloss is a wonderful product that cleans and polishes
in one simple step, and is available in liquid or spray
To remove hard water buildup, try a mild solution of vinegar and
water. For really difficult stains, most lime and rust stain removers
may be used. Be sure to rinse the product well after cleaning
Using the whirlpool system on a regular basis will help to prevent
buildup in the water lines. Routine use of a spa and tub cleaner
will help prevent residue in the system. Spa and tub cleaners are
readily available at most spa and pool companies. Follow the manufacture’s
recommendations for cleaning whirlpool tubs
Showers and Floors
Use a spray or liquid nonabrasive cleaner, such as tilex soap scum
remover. Leave on for five minutes, the scrub with a soft-bristled
brush and remove soap residue.
Minor surface scratches can be buffed out using a polishing compound
and automotive buffer. Deep scratches or chips should be repaired
by a professional repair company. Most minor cigarette burns can
be set sanded with 600 grit sandpaper and polished to a high gloss
finish with a polishing compound and automotive buffer
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Your back-up system will give you trouble-free protection for years
but you can't completely ignore it. The system does need regular
attention and inspection once each month to make sure it is ready
when you need it.
Check to be
sure the transformer is plugged in and that either the Battery Ready
or Charge Required signal light is on.
float cord, pump and transformer connections from control panel.
Carefully open the battery case and make sure battery connections
are tight and not corroded. Clean and retighten if necessary. Remember
battery acid is very harmful to skin, clothing,
etc. Check the battery water level (follow the batter manufacturer's
directions for refilling ). Do not have any flame or burning cigarettes
near the battery. Be sure to close the cover and replace the padlock
after inspection, and replug float, transformer and pump power cords
into the control panel.
Test pump system
operation. Unplug your regular sump pump. Fill the sump with water
until the pump cycles once. Then plug in your regular pump.
This entire inspection and maintenance check will take only about
ten minutes; a very small investment for this protection.
EVERY FOUR YEARS
FOUR YEARS, REPLACE THE BATTERY BACK-UP EVEN IF THE SYSTEM HAS NEVER
BEEN USED. Unless this is done, there may not be enough reserve
power for protection during "power blackouts" of long
duration. Normally, the old battery will still provide months of
service in an automobile or boat. Record the replacement date on
the label of the battery case cover.
FOR YOUR PROTECTION
After a prolonged period (18 to 30 hours) of power interruption
(blackout) the battery may become exhausted. If this occurs, replace
it with a fully charged 12 volt battery.
It takes only
a few minutes to replace a battery in your system.
a fully charged battery on hand.
the pump power cord, the transformer cord and float cord from
the control panel.
the padlock and carefully open the cover of the battery box.
and remove the power wires from the battery.
the exhausted battery out of the battery case. Have it recharged
promptly. Replace it with a fully charged battery.
- RED WIRE TO POSITIVE AND BLACK TO NEGATIVE> Tighten battery
and lock the battery case cover. Plug the pump cord, float cord
and transformer cord into the control panel.
The unit should now function automatically until the electric
power is restored at which time your primary pump will operate
and the temporary battery can be replaced with the original
IF BUZZER SOUNDS
battery back-up sump pump has a warning buzzer that sounds if your
pump turns off. THIS IS AN IMPORTANT SIGNAL REQUIRING PROMPT ACTION
- possible repair or replacement of the AC pump. Until the AC pump
is fixed, the battery back-up pump is handling all the sump water,
and complete battery exhaustion will occur, often in 18 to 30 hours,
leaving you with no protection.
if you cannot hear the signal, the Pump Cycled light goes ON whenever
the battery back-up pumps. If the light goes ON often when no power
failure has occurred, there is a problem with your regular sump
pump. CORRECT AT ONCE.
it is a back-up system, use only in emergencies, it is important
that you test it thoroughly at the time of installation and at least
once each month. Correct at once any difference from the expected
is a 30 amp automotive type fuse on the control board. It may have
blown and will not allow the pump to run. This may be due to obstructions
within the pump inlet causing it to lock up or overwork itself.
It can be removed by pressing and turning the cap, releasing it
for easy replacement. Replace only with an automotive type 30 amp
slow blow fuse.
Always check all cords, plugged connections, etc. to see that they
are intact; these are sometimes dislodged by children or pets.
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